Friday, July 17, 2009

Yes, it's true.




The best pizzeria in America? How could that possibly be true? It must be political if everyone from the Travel Channel to Bon Appetit agree on the kingly status of this tiny pizza joint in Phoenix. Not New York. Phoenix. The place garnering so much attention from the media that it has a three hour wait for a menu that includes pizza and a few appetizers is called Pizzeria Bianco. And yes, it's true. It is the best pizza that I've has outside Italy. Is it better than the best New York style pizza? Probably not, but then can you really compare an Asian pear to a perfect granny smith apple? Exactly. So, while it is impossible to call this place the home of truly the best pizza in America, we can call it the home of the best Neapolitan pizza in America.

There truly is a three hour wait to get into Pizzeria Bianco, if you don't have a reservation, so we were excited to be included in a group of 10 last night. We arrived about an hour before the reservation to have a few drinks at the wine bar next door (there is such a crowd waiting for pizzas that Bar Bianco is also packed). Pizzeria Bianco is located on historic Heritage Square in Downtown Phoenix. Lucky enough to have a parking lot right in front, the pizza and bar businesses reside in two historic houses that lend the perfect atmosphere for this kind of experience.

There were excellent wine and beer offerings at Bar Bianco, as well as a few quality nibbles. Get a cheese plate and some of the Spanish olives - you won't regret it. This is one of those wine bars you dream of - creaky floors, an extremely simple bar with its modest offerings and slightly snobby service.

With 15 people waiting outside in the heat and another 20 or so waiting in the bar next door, I glanced in the huge wood fired oven and noticed only one pizza in its massive yaw. I chuckled to myself as I thought, "this is my kind of chef." I imagined him saying, "I know you're hungry, but you'll only get perfection out of me. Be patient." It reminded me of the late Methode Bistro with its slogan "Good food takes time."

About an hour and a half later, we were summoned to our table by a hostess that was in danger of blowing away if the summer wind storms kicked up. We had the only large table in the place, near the back. Wine was ordered and several appetizers - antipasto plates, caprese salads and bread and oil. I was thinking before we got there that this place must import all of its ingredients from Italy to receive such raves. I was wrong. Chris Bianco went one better - he makes his own sausage and mozzarella. The caprese was excellent, and the cheese is nothing less than spectacular.

We ordered all of the pizzas with the intention of passing plates. When they finally came, a silence fell upon the table. One would think we were in prayer, but no, it was just that culinary silence that is only broken as one stops chewing and swallowing long enough to ask for more wine. This food was amazing. The crust was so perfectly burnt and thin, the toppings adding the perfect balance to the sauce and cheeses. With whimsical names such as "Wiseguy" and "Sonny boy," these were truly pies that did not disappoint. Mine was the "Biancoverde," a pie with mozzarella, ricotta and Parmesan topped with fresh arugula. The peppery tang of the cool arugula against the salty, creamy cheeses was heaven. The fresh sausage on a neighbor's pizza was captivating with a strong caraway seed flavor.

There is more that can be said, but I will practice some restraint and just tell you that it is worth the trip. Make a reservation for at least 8 if you can (if you can't, introduce yourself to somebody and get a group). Show up early and drink in the wine bar. This is really an experience to savor. Will I be back? Absolutely, unless I become so inspired by Pizzeria Bianco that I move to Naples and live on this kind of pizza at its source.

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