Sunday, August 30, 2009

Olive Oil Cake

A good friend of ours invited us to a dinner party with the promise of her moist olive oil cake. I was a bit taken aback by the name of this dessert, and was intrigued at the possibility that it represented. Olive oil in a dessert? I had heard of stranger things (anyone remember the Trout Ice Cream from Iron Chef?), and was keeping an open mind. Well readers, that mind was blown last night. This chef, not known for desserts, has found a must make cake that will grace the table of Cucina di Campo as often as possible. You simply must try this. Thanks E!

3 eggs, beaten
2 cups sugar
10 oz olive oil
10 oz milk
2 oz lime zest
3 tsp lime juice
2 cups flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a 10" round cake pan. Whisk the eggs, sugar, olive oil, milk, lime zest, and lime juice. Sift the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Mix the dry ingredients into the wet mixture, whisk until blended. Pour into the prepared pan, bake for 1 hour.

The cake achieves a crackly patina on the top, ready to accept any number of garnishes. Our host chose to mix a bit of the homemade Lemoncello we brought with powdered sugar to create a simple glaze. Poured over the cake and some fresh strawberries, the Lemoncello glaze was the perfect complement to the olive oil cake's moist, citrus flavor.

Chile Verde

I am famous for several dishes, but this Chile Verde recipe is at the top of the list. Every summer the amazing Hatch chile pepper is made available to us at a few local markets. I usually get mine from Arriba Mexican Grill, where every weekend in August the chiles are brought in from New Mexico and fire roasted right in the parking lot. My friends start getting excited in July when Arriba runs its ads announcing the start of Hatch chile season, and for good reason. While you can get these delicious peppers year-round in cans, nothing compares to driving home with a still warm 4 pound bag of freshly roasted Hatch chiles. The smell is intoxicating, and one never truly knows how hot the batch will be. If you must use canned chiles, make sure you buy the Hatch brand. There is a specific terroir in Hatch, New Mexico that produces a unique breed of chile unmatched by California grown anaheims.

This recipe may seem arduous, but you will discover that the effort is well worth it when the final product is tasted. The yield is fairly high - invite some friends and freeze leftovers.

4 lbs pork shoulder, cubed*
4 lbs fire roasted Hatch chiles, skins and seeds removed, roughly chopped*
8 cloves garlic, chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 bunch green onions, both green and white parts, chopped
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
1 brown onion, chopped
2 cups chicken stock
2 tbsp cumin
4 bay leaves
1 Serrano chile, diced*

Working in batches, brown the pork cubes in canola oil over medium-high flame. Do not crowd the pan - you want the pork to brown, not steam. Remove each browned batch to a plate - the pork will not be cooked through, but will be brown on the outside (it will finish cooking in the sauce).

When all the pork has been browned and removed from the pan, add the brown and green onions, bell pepper, celery and garlic. Add 1 tbsp kosher salt to vegetables. Stir and saute until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the pork back to the pan with any juice remaining on the plate. Add the chicken stock. Add the Hatch chiles.

Add cold water to cover the ingredients in the pan, leaving at least 1 inch between the water and the top of the pan. Stir in the cumin and bay leaves, add 2 tbsp kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste. Bring to a boil.

Place the cover slightly ajar, reduce flame to medium-low, and simmer for at least 1 hour. This dish gets better as it cooks, but after too long (around 3 or 4 hours) the pork will disintegrate and you will have something totally different.

Chile verde is delicious topped simply with sour cream and served with warm flour tortillas. Add a bit of crumbled cotija cheese on top if desired.

Friday, August 28, 2009

Best new tequila

Just found the best new tequila - Dos Lunas. Delicious, this agave liquor is a must try.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Deconstructed Guacamole, or Avocado Salad

I can't remember where I first got the inspiration for this recipe, but I know that it is not entirely my own. Avocado salad is a new twist on guacamole - instead of mashing everything together, why not chop the ingredients and make a cool summer salad? The addition of black beans makes this a filling side dish that people will love at your next barbecue.

2 avocados, cut into large dice
1 pint grape tomatoes, halved
1 yellow bell pepper, cut into medium dice
1/2 cup diced red onion
15 oz can black beans, rinsed and drained
2 tbsp diced jalapeno
1/2 tsp lime zest
1/4 cup fresh lime juice (the juice of about 2 limes)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp chopped garlic

Add all ingredients to a large bowl and gently toss. Let sit in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before serving.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Chicken Marsala

Chicken Marsala is one of those underrated dishes that people usually only eat at restaurants. This simple dish can be made at home and should become a part of your menu rotation. Make sure to use a good Marsala wine imported from Italy - California Marsala doesn't even come close. Yes, good Marsala will cost a bit more, but it will make many iterations of this dish; splurge on the good stuff. Pounding out the chicken breasts serves several purposes - the chicken cooks faster and goes farther, and you can work out the stresses of your day on the meat. Regular white flour is fine for dredging the chicken, but I've found that Wondra works very well for frying. Give it a try in this recipe, and keep it around for making exceptionally smooth sauces and gravies.

2 chicken breasts, pounded to 1/4 inch thick*
3 tablespoons Wondra flour*
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp dried Oregano
3 tbsp butter at room temperature*
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 lb mushrooms, sliced (cremini or white button)
1 cup Marsala wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
4 tbsp Italian parsley, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 shallot, minced

Mix the Wondra flour and a pinch of salt and pepper together on a plate. Dredge the chicken breasts in the Wondra mix, set aside. In a large, heavy bottomed skillet* heat the olive oil over medium high flame. Fry the chicken breasts for about 4 minutes a side or until golden brown and remove to a plate. Don't worry about cooking all the way through, the chicken will finish in the sauce. Keep the chicken warm in a 250 degree oven.

Add the garlic and shallots to the skillet used for the chicken (add another tablespoon of olive oil if there is not enough left in the pan). Saute over medium high flame until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the sliced mushrooms and cook until they release their moisture, about 5 minutes.

Add the Marsala to the pan. Scrape the brown bits off the bottom of the skillet - the Marsala will deglaze* the pan and the bottom should become clean. Continue cooking the mushrooms and Marsala for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock, oregano, and parsley. Taste the sauce, correct the seasonings with sea salt and pepper. Cook the sauce for another 5 minutes, return the chicken to the pan. Reduce the flame to medium low and finish cooking the chicken in the sauce (about 5 minutes). You may cover the pan, reduce to very low, and hold for 15 minutes if needed.

When ready to serve, remove the chicken to a warm serving platter. Increase the flame to medium high and add the butter to the sauce. Stir in the butter until melted and fully incorporated. Check the seasonings again, and correct if necesary with salt, pepper, and Marsala.

Pour the finished sauce over the chicken, and serve with peas and capellini*.

*To pound the chicken breasts, put one in a gallon size zip-top plastic bag with a few drops of water. Seal the bag and pound with a french rolling pin or empty bottle of wine. You can also put the chicken between two pieces of plastic wrap, but I find that the chicken always slips out. The bag method is much cleaner. Flattening the chicken breasts is a great way to feed four people on two breasts - the chicken goes much farther when pounded and then breaded and fried. Wondra flour is an incredible invention. I won't go into detail here (check the website for the full story), but the process basically involves pre-cooking the flour with steam and adding some barley flour as a dough conditioner. This flour is perfect for use in sauce and gravy as it does not lump. I love using it for coating things that are to be fried; Wondra coated chicken fries up with a beautiful golden brown patina. Adding room temperature butter to a sauce is called "mounting" and it is essential. Yes, butter isn't the best for you, but go ahead, it tastes so good! The sauce will thicken and take on a gossamer sheen. As you know by now, Cucina di Campo highly recommends All-Clad stainless steel skillets for their superior cooking performance. Deglazing a pan is a process of adding liquid to a skillet that has become coated with the residue of frying. Adding liquid to the hot pan will remove the stuck-on brown bits (called fond) from the bottom of the pan, adding depth of flavor to a sauce. I love to serve Chicken Marsala with whole wheat capellini (angel hair), but you can serve it with any other pasta on hand or even rice.

Friday, August 7, 2009

Korean BBQ Pork

When I lived in San Francisco's Diamond Heights district we would frequent a place called Hahn's Hibachi. This Korean BBQ restaurant served Everest sized plates of barbecue, and one of our favorites was the "Pile O' Pork." Last night I pulled a couple of pork loin chops out of the freezer and decided to attempt to replicate the Korean barbecue flavor of Hahn's pork. It turned out perfectly - so sweet yet tangy, with that lovely sesame aroma. Served with some jasmine rice, this is an excellent summer meal.

1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup sesame oil
1 tbsp onion powder
1/2 cup water
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch green onions, chopped
1-2 tsp crushed red pepper*
2 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
1 tbsp shallots, finely chopped
6 thin cut pork chops*

In a bowl combine the soy sauce, brown sugar, sesame oil, onion powder, water, garlic, green onions, red pepper, vinegar, ginger, and shallots. Add a dash of salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Whisk the marinade ingredients together well.

Place the pork in a resealable bag, add the marinade. Seal the bag and rub the marinade into the pork. Let the pork marinate for at least 30 minutes, overnight if possible.

Remove the pork from the bag, reserving the marinade. Put the left over marinade into a pan and bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes, than reduce heat to medium and simmer while the pork cooks on the grill.

Preheat a grill to medium high, and oil the grates. This is an important step - the pork will stick if the grill is not oiled. For more on proper barbecueing tips, visit Steven Raichlen's site. This guy is the authority on everything grilled. Grill the pork for several minutes per side, until cooked through.

Add the cooked pork to the pan with the leftover marinade, and toss the pork to coat. You can simmer the pork and sauce combination for a few minutes while you prepare the table - this adds even more flavor to the meat.

Serve pork and sauce over jasmine rice.

* I use crushed red pepper to add heat to this dish, and I like about 1 tbsp. Depending on your tolerance for heat, add more red pepper or explore the wonderful world of Capsicum annuum and thrown in a Thai chili. Hahn used several cuts of pork in his Pile O' Pork, and you can do the same. I used loin chops, but shoulder blade chops and/or ribs work well. Check out this site for more information on the various cuts of pork: Guide to Meat Cuts: Pork. If you make this for a party, double or triple the marinade recipe and use ribs, loin chops, and blade chops to add a little variety.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Lot's Wife



You know what salt is. At least you think you do. I'm not talking about that salt shaker on your table, rather that quixotic mineral responsible for the rise and fall of primitive cultures. You know, "worth your weight in salt." It's that important. Regular table salt, or iodized sodium chloride, is akin to white paint. Yes, it does the job, but have you tried painting a room with eggshell or linen? Subtle variations in those colors are much more pleasing that standard white, as are the enormous variations in salt.

A quick salt primer:
  • Table salt is fine for enhancing the flavor of food at the table, and it contains iodine which is necessary for your health.
  • Kosher salt, the most widely used salt in restaurant cooking, has a large flake and is by volume much less saline that table salt. The shape of the flake makes it easy for chefs to grab a pinch while cooking, and the lack of iodine makes it a chef's first choice. Avoid using in baked goods, as the flakes may not dissolve.
  • Sea salt, as its name suggests, is produced by evaporating sea water (table salt is usually made from mined rock salt, or halite). There are many variations of sea salt, each with a distinct flavor that most people associate with the word "gourmet."
  • Fleur de Sel, or "flower of salt," is produced by scraping the top layer of salt while producing sea salt. The best Fleur de Sel comes from Brittany, and is very expensive. The flavor here is divine, and worth every penny.
  • Himalayan Pink Salt, usually from Pakistan, is most often used in curing meats. Some high end restaurants are using blocks of ancient mined pink salt (some say many millions of years old) as a serving vessel for charcuterie. I've never had a need for this salt at home, but it looks cool!
  • Smoked Salt has a deep, smoky flavor, as evidenced by its name. This salt adds wonderful flavor to salads.
  • Grey Salt is a moist unrefined salt from France. The sea salt is sometimes called Celtic Sea Salt. With a wonderful, mineral flavor, this is the salt revered by chefs for finishing dishes.
  • Rock Salt has its home in three main areas - removing ice from your driveway, aiding in the freezing process for ice cream, and as a base for serving shellfish.

Now that you understand the different types of salts, let's explore their uses in a bit more depth. When cooking, I keep a ramekin of kosher salt by the stove. This is my cooking salt for everything on top of the stove; as mentioned earlier, I never bake with it. You can also use kosher salt to crust a steak - plain old rib eye steaks generously coated with kosher salt and cracked black pepper cooked over a hot grill are wonderful. Kosher salt is used to rim the glasses of classic margaritas, and as an accompaniment to shots of tequila.

Table salt only comes into play when guests think I have under seasoned my food. They are welcome to their opinion, as wrong as it might be. I love to use sea salt in my cooking, but there is a problem. Its cost is fairly high when compared to kosher salt, and its flavor tends to "cook out" if used too early in the process. Most chefs will use sea salt as a finishing salt unless they have the financial means to be wasteful.

Fleur de Sel is my favorite salt of all time. The flavor is incredible, and my guests are amazed at the flavor of food cooked with it. Again, as the cost is high, use this salt to finish dishes - sprinkle a little bit on the food just prior to service. I find that grey salt, generic sea salt, and Fleur de Sel are excellent finishing salts, and I will use which ever one I happen to have at the time.

When I serve oysters or stuffed clams, I prepare the serving platter with a generous layer of rock salt. This bed of rock salt allows you to balance the shells on the plate and provides a nice presentation.

Which salt should you use? I recommend starting with a box of kosher salt and some generic sea salt. Once you switch from table salt to kosher salt, you will begin to get a handle on layering flavors - the most important element of good cooking. Gradually introduce sea salt at the end of the cooking process until you understand how it works as a flavoring agent, and then branch out into other more expensive salts.

Over time you will come to understand the wonderful world of salt and all the depth of flavor it can bring to your table. Just don't look back - we all know what happened to Lot's wife.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Happy Kisses


I don't hide the fact that I am a Happy Hour junkie. Why pay twice as much for the same food and drink if you don't have to? We've been searching the Scottsdale area for the best happy hours, and have identified a few contenders. At the top of our list right now is Un Bacio, a beautiful Italian restaurant in the Gainey Ranch area (down the road from The Kitchen, see earlier post). Un Bacio means "a kiss" in Italian, and I think most of you are just now figuring out the title of this post...

Un Bacio has a special menu for its happy hour, which runs from 4:30 to 7 pm, Tuesday through Friday. There are half price drink specials - wine, beer and cocktails - and "small plates" of food. These plates are definitely not small - you will probably have left overs (I guess you could call them small if you were Brobdingnagian). A few of our favorite "small plates" are the Capellini with Baby Clams ($7.50) and the Stuffed Eggplant ($7). The Capellini is an incredible dish with plenty of fresh clams, more than enough for dinner. The Stuffed Eggplant is deliciously cheesy with a wonderful red sauce. Also try the Antipasto Plate ($8) and the Margherita Pizza ($9). In fact, the whole menu is a culinary masterpiece at unbelievable prices.

This is one of those places that understands the value of a good happy hour. Un Bacio will suck you in with a chance to taste the menu on the cheap, but they know you'll be back for the complete dinner soon. Cucina di Campo ranks it the "Best Happy Hour in Scottsdale" for now. You didn't think we would stop looking for great deals, did you?

Sunday, August 2, 2009

A Couple of Cocktails for Summer

It's summer, and we must drink tequila. Here are a few ways to do it that taste great and will refresh you while sitting by the pool. Please, serve some food with these cocktails - I don't want to be responsible for your guests passing out before dinner.

True Margarita

2 parts premium tequila, such as Porfidio or Patron Silver
1 part Cointreau
1 part freshly squeezed lime juice

Shake ingredients over ice, pour into salt-rimmed margarita glasses. Notice the lack of sweet and sour or Margarita mix. The recipe above is the true margarita, not one of those college bar concoctions that makes you gag with all of its sweetness. Be careful, these are dangerous.

Tequila Gimlet (Desert Mojo)
2 shots Sauza Blanco Tequila
juice of 1 and 1/2 limes
1 tsp superfine sugar

Shake ingredients over ice, pour into a lowball glass filled with ice. Again, be warned - only a few of these and you'll be on your back.

If you are a purist, and I know some of you are, these two options may seems like a waste of good tequila. In that case, just shake your tequila wildly over ice and then shake your head wildly as you down your shot. At least people won't think you actually like straight tequila.